Black History, Excellence, & Opulence

With a career spanning nearly 50 years, André Leon Talley is known as one of the most fashionable, knowledgeable, and groundbreaking icons of the fashion industry. He was the first Black Creative Director for American Vogue, a champion of diversity, and in his own words, “a custodian of fashion”. When I learned of the exhibit paying homage to Mr. Talley, I knew I couldn’t miss it. I hopped on a plane from Houston to Atlanta during Black History Month with excitement to consume the exhibit in person. From the moment I walked in, I was awestruck and filled with emotion.

The exhibit was held at SCAD where Mr. Talley had a long-standing partnership as a mentor, member of the Board of Trustees, curator, and philanthropist. The capsule included 70+ pieces of art (clothing, shoes, accessories, bags, handwritten notes and more) from Mr. Talley’s personal collection. The pieces were nothing short of stunning. What made this such an emotional tribute were the mannequins commissioned in his likeness. They were created by a SCAD graduate named Stephen L. Hayes Jr. The resemblance in looks and stature of the 6-foot-6-inch sculptures gave the pieces the respect they deserved in terms of being showcased properly. I’d never seen such detail taken in a fashion exhibit before but I expected nothing less for such a grand figure.

Left: Chanel & Prada | Center: Dior | Right: Gucci

Right: Norma Kamali & Ugg

The King of Kaftans

Over the span of his career, kaftans became Mr. Talley’s signature look which is why I have donned him, “The King of Kaftans”. They weren’t just bold and beautiful. They were a nod to culture and comfort. It is said that the kaftan originated in Asia, though which part is highly debated. Regardless of origin, it has been adopted by cultures from all over the world including my very Black American, very Southern household.

Mr. Talley had an amazing collection of kaftans and only a small fraction of them were on show at the exhibit. They ranged in designs, colors, and fabrics but all had the air of luxury. My favorite was the reversible couture piece created by Gucci x Dapper Dan. Dan and Mr. Talley, while having very different backgrounds and entries into the fashion world, had things in common that made this collaboration so special. They’re both Black Dandies. Both are innovators in their own right. They’ve both cemented their names into the history books of an industry that was not created with them in mind and didn’t always appreciate their contributions, but eventually embraced them.

Red kaftan by ralph rucci featuring libra and scorpio zodiac charms by dianne von FURSTENBERG, representing Mr. talley and anna wintour respectively.

Both pieces Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent

Gucci x Dapper Dan - one side

Gucci x Dapper Dan - reversed side

*“Sanctuary - André Leon Talley,” by Ashley Longshore*

Statement Pieces

When people mention “statement pieces” it is often in regard to the clothing being avant garde. But in this particular context, the pieces showcased statements that carried a larger message. A message that Mr. Talley believed and spoke about candidly: Fashion is political. He often wore pieces that showed his political allegiance and referenced causes he believed in.

Throughout his career, Mr. Talley never shied away from the topic of racism while also pushing for more diversity in fashion as a mentor to Black designers, stylists, and editors. He also served as an advisor to The Obamas and helped Mrs. Obama secure her Vogue magazine cover in 2009.